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Introduction.
Colloidal silver solution can be purchased in health food stores and over the net, however, it is not inexpensive. However, it is NOT commonly known that this wonderful product can be safely and easily produced at home and for a miniscule cost.
Robert C. Beck, who has had a long and very successful career as an engineer, has become involved in health issues, and he has researched this technology. The information he has provided to the public -- free of charge -- tells you how to assemble your own colloidal silver-making apparatus which uses readily-available, inexpensive batteries. Typical costs are around $25-20 for an apparatus which can make many gallons of colloidal silver (not including the cost of the distilled water you must use). And, if you have priced colloidal silver, you will note that just one small bottle will cost you most of this.
Beck's entire copyrighted article is reproduced below. This gives (a) a parts list, (b) construction information, and (c) usage information. Before his article I have placed a little diagram I made to illustrate what the apparatus looks like, since his instructions might be a little unclear if you are unfamiliar with electrical circuits. This page should be printed out and read several times, since it contains a lot of highly detailed information.
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Currently Preferred Silver Colloid Making Apparatus, Means, and Methods
Copyright © 1994 Robert C. Beck, revision 4 Aug. 1995
To easily and rapidly make unlimited quantities of good quality silver colloid concentrate ~1/10 cent per gallon (plus water costs) you'll need:
three 9V type MN1604 regular alkaline batteries,
three battery snap-on connectors,
2 insulated alligator clips,
1 "grain of wheat" 24 volt 40 mA subminiature incandescent bulb,
a foot of 3/32 in. heat-shrink insulation tubing,
10 in. PURE SILVER wire, and
a foot of 2-conductor stranded insulated wire for clip-leads.
This should cost under $20 maximum for everything and take about 35 minutes to assemble from scratch. This design is "idiot proof" and simple to use. It makes an odorless, tasteless, colorless, fast and powerful antiseptic and one of the most remarkable healing agents known. The entire colloid-making process takes about 5 minutes per 8 oz. batch for ~6 parts per million (ppm) laboratory tested concentration.
Use three snap-on connector clips for the batteries. Solder them in series, (red to black) to provide 27 volts. Connect a 24 V incandescent lamp in series with either (positive or negative) output lead. Solder a red insulated alligator clip to the positive (anode) and a black insulated clip to the negative (cathode) 2-conductor wires. Insulation is shrunk over soldered connections using a heat gun or hair dryer. Use ONLY pure silver (.999 fine) electrodes. #14 gauge wire (AWG) is the preferred size. Pure silver is sometimes available at electroplating supply companies, foundaries, precious metal dealers, etc. Do NOT use "Sterling" silver (.9275 or other) since Sterline contains copper and nickel. Nickel can be toxic. WARNING! Sterling is sometimes passed off for electrodes with commercial colloid ,akers through ignorance or by entrepreneurs who are trying to cut corners and save money. Discard them. Use only distilled water for ingestible and injectable colloid. Tap water is OK for most other uses.
Bend top ends of silver electrode wires to clip over rim of plastic or glass container. Leave about 4 inches of bare electrodes submerged in the working solution (water). Spacing between electrodes is not critical. There is no on-off switch, so process starts immediately when alligator clips are both attached to submerged wires. Process stops when either one or both clips are disconnected. If bulb glows visibly, proceed and let current flow for about 5 minutes then remove alligator clips, stir, and you're done! If bulb doesn't light or you see only a faint reddish glow, add sea-salt solution (see next paragraph). Observe the smoke-like plumes of pure white ultra fine grain silver against a dark background as colloid electrolytically sinters off the anode (positive polarity side of battery, red lead) and drifts into solution. Stir thoroughly before using or storing and shake each time before using. Five minutes activation of ~8 oz. of properly conductive water gives ~5-7 ppm (parts per million) strength. Yield depends on water conductivity, surface area of electrodes, amount of current, and time. Approximately 5 minutes makes a stock solution which can be diluted further to make a typical working solution. I occasionally put electrodes in my coffee, fruit and vegetable juice, tap water, and other restaurant drinks to charge them with colloid directly. I even treated a mug of Anchor Steam Beer to see if it worked -- it did! But it's best to charge water by itself and add this to other foods and liquids as desired or drink it directly. Overdosing with any amount is considered unlikely.
The 24 V, 40 mA miniature bulb acts as an ideal ballast , current drain indicator, current limiter, and batter condition check for the apparatus. I found aircraft "grain of wheat" lamps ((Precision Lamp Inc. part # 10238) in surplus for 50 cents each. You can momentarily short-circuit clip-leads together without harm; the bulb will simply light brightly. Also the visual brightness while operating gives an accurate indication of water conductivity. With distilled or de-ionized (high resistance) water, you should stir in a very minute amount (1 or 2 drops) -- no more -- of dissolved sea salt, preferably "Celtic Golden Marine" (brand) available at health food stores. Do not use table salt since it contains additives like iodine, aluminium, or silica desiccaters, etc. Too much (3 drops) of salt (NaCl) can produce unwanted silver chloride and give a "dish water" appearance. Prepare a saturated solution of sea salt beforehand, filter and store in a 1 or 2 oz. brown drugstore eyedropper bottle. Add a little colloid to your bottle to prevent bacteria growth. Stir a drop of this salt solution into any high-resistance water. The bulb should show just a dim reddish glow. Salt must be added BEFORE making colloid. Make and store only in electrically non-conductive containers such as dark brown glass or plastic such as prune juice bottles or hydrogen peroxide containers, never in metal. Suggested adult dosage of silver colloid can be one to several ounces of stock solutionin 6 to 8 oz. of water taken not more than 3 times in 24 hours. Consult your health professional. An 8 oz. glass can be ingest directly occassinoal with no harm or side effects.
Clean electrode wires after each use to remove dark oxide occurring on anode because the oxygen (produced electrolytically) oxidizes silver. Use a small piece of 1/4 in. thick nylon Scotchbrite® kitchen scouring pad to polish dried silver, then wipe with paper napkin to make ready for next use. A fresh set of 3 alkaline batteries will make hundreds of 8 oz. batches of 5 minute silver colloid before battery replacement becomes necessary. Periodically check batteries by momentarily short-circuiting tips of alligator clips together to observe whiteness and intensity of light. When bulb appears significantly dimmer or looks yellowish after time, replace all 3 alkaline batteries. Pry snap connectors off, tape 3 new cells together, and replace snap-on clips. Be VERY careful not to crush or damage the fragile little lamp.
Colloid concentration and purity is readily checked by viewing back-scatter of a laser beam as it passes through your finished solution (Tyndall/Raleigh effect). Use a 1 to 5 milliwatt laser diode pointer (630 to 670 nanometer wavelength) that makes a small spot at several feet, not just a "light emitting diode". Looking into the beam at about a 15 degree angle . (Point beam through solution so spot hits your chin or lips. Never look directly at source; this can injure your eyes). Laser pointer retail for about $30 at some computer or parts outlets such as Fry's Electronics. Surprisingly, the inexpensive pointer from Radio Shack does not perform satisfactorily for this particular application, while other (about $69) models will.
Stir your fresh batch with a plastic (non-conductve) fast-food disposable knife and store in a dark brown container. KEEP AWAY FROM LIGHT as even room light will degrade colloids rapidly by turning solution grey or black just as exposure to light darkens the silver in camera film. Light can also neutralize positive charges on silver ions that help keep particles in suspension. Keep colloids cool, but do not refrigerate or let freeze. ALWAYS SHAKE CONTAINER THOROUGHLY EACH TIME BEFORE USING. After evaluating many different instruments and methods, this paper describes what is easily the best performing, least expensive, simplest and most convenient method for producing good quality silver colloids known. It has been tested and found to work much better than expensive, dangerous, and complex devices. However, it does not work with metals such as gold. This standalone appliance works well all by itself , and never requires high voltage, ignition coils, transformers, underwater sparking, or "plugging in". It goes in your pocket and will work anywhere. It is essential for sterilizing local drinking water when travelling. (See accompanying suggested uses). It can generate excellent fine-grain silver colloids directly in any fluid containing water ranging from soup to champagne without diluting it. You can make any desired concentration in parts per million by electrolyzing for longer periods of time. There is no heat or waste, and it cannot shock you. There is no need to stir during processing, however stirring or shaking is essential before storing and each time before using. Filtering is generally unnecessary. Don't add preservatives, minerals, EDTA, proteins, gelatin, coloring (some makers add yellow dye to make it appear "golden") or any other substances. If purchased at market prices commercial colloids could cost up to $60 for 8 oz. of generally vastly inferior products. Most available colloids on today's market when evaluated prove to be practically worthless. (At a recent health expo, in my opinion out of eight brands tested onl two were found to be adequate in quality, suspension, and content. Many contained additives such as EDTA, coloring, and gelatin for suspension). This paper describes a way for anyone to make his own for only a small fraction of a penny. It seems ridiculous to buy it for high prices. You can now afford to use colloids universally, such as in laundry water for sterilization, as a disinfectant spray, rinse for fruit and vegetables, fungicide, bactericide, plant spray, pet health assurance, and hu;ndred of other applications. Drinking dilute silver colloid safely kills over 650 pathogens, viruses, microbes, fungi, and parasites within minutes and is said to give you a second intact immune system. Side effects of overdosing are unknown, and resistant strains of disease-causing pathogens never develop.
WARING! Multi-level entrepeneurs hoodwinked by profit motivated promoters will believe that their colloid is "better, finer-particle size, purer, longer suspension, more golden, made by some top secret proprietary process, etc." or other absurd rationalizations to justify outrageous prices. Just offer to test both at an independent laboratory. This do-it-yourself process makes a perfectly adequate colloid with a two year track record of excellent results.
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If you have further questions, contact Robert G. Benson:
email to "rgbenson" at "newagequest.com".
Copyright © 2003 by Robert G. Benson. All rights reserved.
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